Definitely read this recipe through before starting, especially what can and cannot be made ahead, listed at the end, before you start. While I’ve simplified it in every way that such a wobbling, centerpiece of a dessert can be without compromising what it is, please, let this be an indulgence …

I’m using fingerlings and cremini mushrooms from the Union Square Greenmarket, lucky me, but I usually make this with yukon gold potatoes and any mix of mushrooms that looks good at the store. Potatoes 1 1/2 pounds (680 grams) Yukon gold potatoes, peeled if you wish, cut into 1/4-inch slices …